Hello, I’m Tom.
This time, I took a road trip from Kanazawa in Ishikawa Prefecture to neighboring Fukui. Leaving behind the graceful ambiance of Kanazawa, I was greeted by clear skies and a refreshing start to this new leg of my journey.
When people hear “Fukui,” many immediately think of dinosaurs or katsudon (pork cutlet rice bowl). But that’s just scratching the surface. Surrounded by mountains and the sea, this area is rich in culture and flavor.
Here’s a journal of my two-day, one-night stay in Fukui.
- A Leisurely Drive from Kanazawa to Fukui
- A Duo of Delights: Echizen Oroshi Soba and Mini Sauce Katsudon
- Feeling the Weight of Time at the Dinosaur Museum
- On to Tsuruga: A Seafood Dinner at Marusanya
- A Night Encounter with Galaxy Express 999
- Morning by the Port
- Red Brick Warehouses and the Tsuruga Museum
- A Glimpse into the Past at the Tsuruga Railway Museum
- In Quietness, A Journey’s Echo Remains
A Leisurely Drive from Kanazawa to Fukui
Departing from Kanazawa Station, I headed south by rental car—about an hour and a half drive along National Route 8. The scenery gradually shifted along the way, with vast rice fields, lazily spinning wind turbines, and local farmers selling fresh produce at roadside stations.
These unassuming landscapes had a calming effect, making me feel like I was unwinding from the inside out.
I reached Fukui City right around lunchtime and decided to grab a meal before exploring further.
A Duo of Delights: Echizen Oroshi Soba and Mini Sauce Katsudon
I visited a long-standing soba restaurant near Fukui Station. My choice? A set of “Echizen Oroshi Soba” and “Mini Sauce Katsudon.”
The soba appeared modest—thick, translucent noodles topped with a generous helping of grated daikon radish, chopped scallions, and bonito flakes. But simplicity is part of the charm.
Fukui’s soba is known for its high buckwheat content, which gives it a strong aroma. Pouring the cold broth over the noodles and slurping them down with the spicy daikon creates a refreshing burst of flavor.
Then came the mini katsudon: thin, tender pork cutlets soaked in a slightly sweet sauce, laid over rice. No egg, just sauce—true to Fukui’s style. This version traces its roots back to early Shōwa-era Western food culture.
The contrast between the light soba and rich katsudon made for a well-rounded meal, almost as if I were tasting Fukui’s mountains and sea in one sitting.
Feeling the Weight of Time at the Dinosaur Museum
With my hunger satisfied, I headed toward one of Fukui’s most famous destinations: the Fukui Prefectural Dinosaur Museum.
After about an hour’s drive into the mountains of Katsuyama, a massive silver dome came into view—that’s the museum.
Upon entering, I was immediately captivated by life-sized dinosaur skeletons. The dramatic confrontation between a Tyrannosaurus and a Triceratops was especially breathtaking.
The permanent exhibition includes actual fossils discovered in Fukui, such as “Fukuiraptor” and “Fukuisaurus.” The fact that they’re named after the local area made them feel oddly familiar.
One section showed how fossils are excavated and analyzed, including videos of real fieldwork. It reminded me how reading layers of earth is an exercise in both patience and imagination.
Unearthing millions of years from the ground—what a humbling and awe-inspiring pursuit.
Seeing the wonder in the eyes of the kids around me made the experience even more memorable.
On to Tsuruga: A Seafood Dinner at Marusanya
Leaving the museum, I drove an hour and a half south to Tsuruga City, a coastal town known for its seafood.
Naturally, I made my way to Marusanya, a popular izakaya serving up local catches. This spot is beloved by tourists and locals alike.
First up: grilled mackerel sushi. The lightly charred fish paired beautifully with subtly sweet vinegared rice, practically melting in my mouth.
Next was battera, a Kansai-style pressed sushi also featuring mackerel. The thickness of the fish and the umami of kelp made it irresistibly satisfying.
Then came something unique—heshiko sashimi. Heshiko is mackerel preserved in rice bran, a traditional Fukui food. On its own, it’s salty, but when thinly sliced like sashimi, it pairs excellently with sake.
Speaking of sake, I had a glass of “Kokuryu Itchorai,” a refined brew from Eiheiji Town. “Itchorai” is a Fukui dialect word meaning “the best” or “finest.”
With its crisp flavor and gentle aroma, it complemented the rich fish perfectly.
As I walked back to my lodging, letting the evening breeze sober me up, I stumbled upon something unexpected.
A Night Encounter with Galaxy Express 999
Along the sidewalk, I noticed bronze statues of Galaxy Express 999 characters—Maetel, Tetsurō, and the Conductor.
Tsuruga has embraced the world of Leiji Matsumoto, the manga’s creator, by installing these monuments throughout the city.
Historically, Tsuruga is a proud “railway town.” From the Meiji era through early Shōwa, it served as an international gateway, linking Japan with the continent.
These statues, aligned like stars, quietly reminded me that travel isn’t just about movement—it’s about dreams and timeless stories.
That night, I felt full in every sense: from the hearty food, and from the quiet wonder of unexpected discovery.
Morning by the Port
The next morning, I awoke to a flawless blue sky. Before breakfast, I decided to stroll along the coast.
The port was peaceful, filled only with the sounds of waves and seagulls. Tsuruga, under the morning sun, wore a completely different face than it had the night before.
On my way to the red brick warehouses, I passed old fishing gear and locals out for walks—little snapshots of daily life.
Red Brick Warehouses and the Tsuruga Museum
Built in 1905, Tsuruga’s red brick warehouses originally served as bonded storehouses. Today, they house cafes, craft shops, and the Tsuruga Museum.
Inside the museum, I learned that Tsuruga once thrived as “Japan’s front door,” welcoming travelers and refugees.
One exhibit featured Polish orphans and Jewish refugees who entered Japan through Tsuruga after receiving Chiune Sugihara’s life-saving visas.
Seeing old timetables, ship models, and black-and-white photographs made the stories feel real and deeply human.
History isn’t just about dates—it’s about connections.
A Glimpse into the Past at the Tsuruga Railway Museum
Just a few minutes’ walk from the warehouses is the Tsuruga Railway Museum, housed in a restored port station building.
The retro exterior opens into a re-creation of an early Shōwa-era train station, complete with vintage tickets, uniforms, and signal equipment.
The most striking exhibit was about the Eurasian Continental Express—a rail route linking Tsuruga to Europe via Vladivostok and the Trans-Siberian Railway.
From travel documents to meal menus, the displays told a story of movement, ambition, and global connection—all beginning in this small port town.
A staff member shared that older visitors still come in and say, “I once rode that train.”
Tracing railway history isn’t just about transport—it’s about touching the lives and dreams of those who traveled.
In Quietness, A Journey’s Echo Remains
And so ended my short but memorable trip to Fukui.
It may not be a flashy tourist destination, but it’s full of real stories, everyday lives, and lovingly preserved flavors.
I reflected on dinosaur bones, tasted the sea in sushi, and listened to whispers of history within red bricks.
Fukui spoke softly but deeply.
As I walked, the sights, sounds, and scents soaked into me. Maybe that’s what it means to truly experience a place.
Next time, I hope to take my time wandering the Echizen coast or visiting Eiheiji Temple.
For now, I brought home some Habutae Mochi—a signature sweet of Fukui—and carried the memory of this quiet, powerful journey.
Until next time!
