Hello, I’m Tom.
This time, I took two separate day trips from Nagoya to explore the Gifu area.
Gifu is often associated with samurai warriors and famous battlefields of the Sengoku period, but there’s much more to discover. From peaceful castle towns and hearty local cuisine to tranquil mountain villages steeped in history, Gifu is full of gentle charm.
Here’s a leisurely account of my two-day trips, each offering a different side of this multifaceted region.
- From Nagoya to Gifu: Renting a Car Locally Is a Smart Move
- A Flavorful Gifu Lunch: Local Specialties
- Exploring Gujo Hachiman Castle and Its Historic Townscape
- A Second Visit: A Day Trip to Sekigahara’s Historic Battlefield
- A Relaxing Detour: Roadside Station Palette Pia Ono
- Final Thoughts: Echoes of History and the Taste of Gifu
From Nagoya to Gifu: Renting a Car Locally Is a Smart Move
It takes only about 20 minutes by JR Tokaido Line to get from Nagoya Station to Gifu Station. Despite the short distance, the scenery quickly becomes more rural and relaxed.
I had considered renting a car in Nagoya, but knowing how busy weekends can be, I opted to rent one in Gifu instead—and it turned out to be a great decision. Gifu Station was far less crowded, making car pickup a breeze. Driving north from the station was smooth and scenic.
As we headed out, fields stretched wide and low mountains rose in the distance. The picturesque landscapes of Gifu immediately put me in a travel mindset.
A Flavorful Gifu Lunch: Local Specialties
For lunch, I stopped by a local diner specializing in regional dishes. I ordered a set that included both “Kei-chan-yaki” and “Hoba Miso Yaki.”
Kei-chan-yaki is a homestyle dish popular in the mountain regions of Gifu. Chicken is marinated in a garlicky miso or soy-based sauce, then stir-fried with cabbage and onions. It’s bold, savory, and pairs perfectly with a bowl of rice.
Hoba Miso is a traditional Hida-area dish. A big magnolia leaf is used as a plate, topped with rich miso, green onions, and mushrooms, then slowly grilled. As the miso cooks, it releases an earthy, aromatic scent that whets the appetite.
Savoring these dishes, surrounded by rustic charm, I couldn’t help but smile.
Exploring Gujo Hachiman Castle and Its Historic Townscape
Next, I headed to Gujo Hachiman Castle in Gujo City. This mountain castle, perched at 350 meters above sea level, is known for having the oldest reconstructed wooden keep in Japan.
Originally built in the Sengoku period and improved by Endo Yoshitaka during the early Edo era, the castle served as the center of Gujo Domain for generations.
The current keep was rebuilt in 1933, but its seamless harmony with the surrounding nature makes it feel like it’s always belonged there.
Climbing the stone steps, the view opens up to a sweeping panorama of Gujo town and the Yoshida River below—well worth the effort.
The castle town features white-walled storehouses, cobblestone alleys, and quaint traditional homes, each corner looking like a scene from a painting.
One signboard caught my eye: it talked about the Gujo Odori, one of Japan’s three major Bon Odori festivals. During summer, they even hold all-night dancing events. That definitely made me want to return in the warmer months.
Initially, I had planned to visit Shirakawa-go afterward, but arriving late in the day meant access to the central village was limited. I admired the thatched rooftops from afar and left with the promise of a return visit.
A Second Visit: A Day Trip to Sekigahara’s Historic Battlefield
A few days later, I returned to Gifu—this time to its western area, aiming for Sekigahara.
After getting off at JR Sekigahara Station, I found myself surrounded by peaceful countryside, framed by fields and mountains. Nestled here is the Gifu Sekigahara Battlefield Memorial Museum.
This was the site of the pivotal Battle of Sekigahara in 1600, where Tokugawa Ieyasu’s Eastern Army clashed with Ishida Mitsunari’s Western Army in a showdown that shaped Japanese history.
Inside the museum, visitors can enjoy a large diorama and a battlefield simulation theater using projection mapping—perfect even for those who aren’t big history buffs.
What moved me most were the detailed panels showing the complex relationships between key samurai leaders. Their betrayals, loyalties, and ambitions turned what seemed like mere war records into vivid, human dramas.
At the museum café, I ordered the local specialty “Sekigahara Curry,” served in a bowl shaped like samurai armor. The rich, spicy curry and local vegetables hit the spot.
A Relaxing Detour: Roadside Station Palette Pia Ono
On the way back, I made a 20-minute drive to the roadside station “Palette Pia Ono,” nestled in the hills.
The spacious grounds featured a farmers’ market with fresh local produce, souvenir shops selling regional specialties, open lawns, and a café offering dishes made with local ingredients.
I had planned a quick stop, but ended up lingering for over half an hour. I found beautiful local rice called “Hatsushimo,” Hida beef products, and all-natural jams that made perfect souvenirs.
Families picnicked on the lawn, and older couples chatted over soft serve ice cream. The station felt like a beloved community hub, blending travelers and locals with ease.
Spending time here was the perfect way to wind down from a day of exploring.
Final Thoughts: Echoes of History and the Taste of Gifu
Though just a short ride from Nagoya, Gifu revealed itself to be a place of quiet depth—rich in history, natural beauty, and everyday warmth.
I’ll never forget the view from Gujo Hachiman Castle, the smoky aroma of Hoba Miso, the strategic drama of Sekigahara, or the peaceful charm of Palette Pia.
Next time, I hope to walk through Shirakawa-go leisurely or join the Gujo Odori dance circle. Gifu has more stories to tell, and I can’t wait to hear them.
See you next time!
