Hello, this is Tom.
Today I’d like to share my reflections on a two-day trip I spent in Matsuyama.
Soaking in hot springs, tracing the footsteps of literary figures, and savoring local dishes — at first glance, it sounds like an ordinary sightseeing plan. But each experience was full of small surprises and discoveries, and before I knew it, I was thinking: “I really want to come back here.”
The steam of Dogo Onsen, the mechanical dolls of the Botchan Clock, the contrasting ways of eating tai-meshi (sea bream rice) in Uwajima and Matsuyama, the castle town overlooked by Matsuyama Castle, and the story of Saka no Ue no Kumo (Clouds Above the Hill). Each of them is an essential part of Matsuyama’s charm.
In this post, I’ll walk through my two days in Matsuyama in chronological order, while sharing the literary atmosphere and culinary richness I felt. I hope this will bring Matsuyama a little closer to you — especially if you’re looking for your next travel destination.
Practical Information for Travelers
- How to Get There
Matsuyama can be reached by air from major cities like Tokyo (Haneda) and Osaka (Itami/Kansai). A flight from Tokyo takes about 1 hour 30 minutes. From Matsuyama Airport, a bus to the city center takes around 15 minutes (¥430). - Getting Around the City
The Iyotetsu streetcars are the easiest way to explore. A single ride costs ¥200, or you can buy a one-day pass for ¥600 which covers unlimited rides, including to Dogo Onsen. - Accommodation
Matsuyama offers a range of stays from budget hotels (around ¥5,000 per night) to ryokan-style inns near Dogo Onsen (from ¥10,000–20,000 including meals).
Day 1 — Dogo Onsen and a Night of Sea Bream
Arrival at Matsuyama Station
I arrived at Matsuyama Station in the afternoon. Stepping out of the gates, I saw the orange Iyotetsu trains glowing in the sunlight. At that moment, I truly felt I had come to a “city of literature.” After all, Matsuyama is the stage for Natsume Soseki’s Botchan and the hometown of haiku reformer Masaoka Shiki.
I dropped my luggage at the hotel and hopped on a streetcar bound for Dogo Onsen Station. It takes about 20 minutes (¥200 one way). A small tip: “Matsuyama Station” and “Matsuyama City Station” are different stops, so don’t mix them up.
Dogo Park and the Shiki Memorial Museum
My first stop was Dogo Park, a lush green area on a small hill. Once the site of Yuzuki Castle, remnants of stone walls and moats remain today. In spring the park is famous for cherry blossoms, and in autumn for its foliage.
Next door is the Masaoka Shiki Memorial Museum. Despite his short life and illness, Shiki transformed haiku through his “shasei” (sketch from life) style. His manuscripts and diaries on display conveyed the intensity of his passion.
Admission: Dogo Park is free. The Shiki Memorial Museum costs ¥400 for adults.
Botchan Clock and the Shopping Arcade
Leaving the park, I came to the Botchan Karakuri Clock. From 8 a.m. to 10 p.m., every hour the clock tower rises with music, and the characters of Botchan appear and begin to move. When I passed by, a crowd had already gathered, smiling and laughing.
Nearby, the Dogo shopping arcade is lined with inns and souvenir shops, evoking the nostalgic charm of a hot spring town.
Good to know: The clock show is free.
Dogo Onsen Honkan — A Bath in Everyday Life
Dogo Onsen Honkan, rebuilt in 1894, is a three-story wooden bathhouse and one of Japan’s most famous hot springs, designated an Important Cultural Property.
Inside, it’s surprisingly modest — more like a neighborhood bathhouse than a luxury spa. The sound of wooden buckets and chatter of locals made me realize: this is not just a tourist spot but part of everyday life.
Admission: From ¥420 for a simple bath to ¥1,500 for courses including private rooms and tea.
The Famous Mikan Juice Tap
Wandering the shopping arcade, I stopped at Ehime no Shokutaku 1970, known for its novelty: a tap that pours out mikan (mandarin orange) juice. Each variety tasted different — sweet Unshu mikan, tart Iyokan, balanced Kiyomi. On the wall was a “family tree” of citrus varieties, showing how they were cultivated over time.
Uwajima-Style Tai-meshi at Kadoya
For dinner I went to Kadoya, a well-known restaurant from Uwajima. Uwajima-style tai-meshi is all about sashimi.
How to eat:
- Beat the raw egg in the sauce.
- Add condiments (green onion, seaweed, sesame).
- Place slices of raw sea bream on hot rice, pour the sauce over.
The freshness of the fish and the richness of the egg made every bite luxurious.
Price: Around ¥1,800–2,200.
Gosiki — Mikan Beer and Tai Somen
Later that night I visited Gosiki, a long-established restaurant founded in the Edo period. The warm wooden interior made it easy to relax.
There I enjoyed a glass of mikan beer and, most importantly, my long-awaited tai somen. A whole sea bream surrounded by somen noodles, tender fish with delicate broth-soaked noodles — festive yet comforting.
Price: Mikan beer ¥700, tai somen around ¥2,000.
A Surprise Encounter with KISUKE BOX
On my way back, I stumbled upon KISUKE BOX, a local entertainment complex with a hot spring, bowling, karaoke, and restaurants. It was full of locals, showing another side of Matsuyama life.
Tip: Entry to the hot spring starts around ¥700.
Day 2 — Matsuyama Castle and Modern Literature
Matsuyama Castle
The next morning, I headed to Matsuyama Castle, one of only twelve original castles remaining in Japan. Built in 1603, it stands proudly on a hill overlooking the city.
Inside the grounds are spacious gardens, winding wooden staircases, and displays of armor and weapons. The fan-shaped stone walls are both elegant and practical.
From the top, I enjoyed a sweeping view of the city and Seto Inland Sea.
Admission: Castle ¥520, ropeway or lift round-trip ¥520 (combined ticket ¥1,040).
Matsuyama-Style Tai-meshi at Akiyoshi
For lunch I went to Akiyoshi, a popular local spot. Matsuyama-style tai-meshi is rice cooked with sea bream.
How to eat:
- Eat it plain — savor the umami of the fish.
- Add condiments like onion and seaweed.
- Pour broth over for ochazuke-style.
If Uwajima-style is about freshness, Matsuyama-style is about depth.
Price: Around ¥1,800–2,300.
Saka no Ue no Kumo Museum
In the afternoon, I visited the Saka no Ue no Kumo (Clouds Above the Hill) Museum, designed by architect Tadao Ando. The exhibits trace the lives of the Akiyama brothers and Shiki.
It was especially moving to see how Shiki continued to write while bedridden.
Admission: ¥400.
Bansuiso
My last stop was Bansuiso, a French-style villa from the Taisho era. Its European architecture and stained glass interior brought me back a century in time.
Admission: ¥300.
Return from Matsuyama Airport
By evening it was time to head home. At Matsuyama Airport, I grabbed a final jakoten before boarding.
The steam of Dogo Onsen, the laughter around the Botchan Clock, the two kinds of tai-meshi, tai somen, the castle’s stone walls, the spirit of Saka no Ue no Kumo, and the Taisho romance of Bansuiso — together, they formed a journey woven of literature and cuisine.
Conclusion
Bathing in hot springs, devouring tai-meshi, laughing with strangers in front of the Botchan Clock — all of it made me simply glad I came.
The title “city of literature” is no empty label. Everywhere in Matsuyama, I felt the presence of Shiki and Soseki. The two days I spent there felt less like sightseeing and more like a time to reflect on my own life.
Now that I’m back, I feel an irresistible urge to reread Natsume Soseki’s Botchan. Remembering the air of Matsuyama as I turn the pages, I’m sure it will feel different this time.
Until next time!
