Hello, it’s Tom here!
This time I took a short one-night, two-day trip to Miyazaki, the tropical corner of Kyushu.
When you think of Miyazaki, the first things that probably come to mind are mangoes and chicken nanban. But once I visited, I realized there’s so much more. The wave-shaped rock formations of Oni no Sentakuita (“Devil’s Washboard”) along the Aoshima coastline, the history of the Shimazu clan in Miyakonojo, and the neon glow of snack bars lighting up Nishitachi at night.
Miyazaki is like two different cities depending on the time of day. Bright sunshine and turquoise seas during the day, heartwarming hospitality with shochu at night. That contrast is what made this trip so fascinating.
Here’s the exact route I took, with my personal impressions along the way. At the end, I’ll also share some souvenir tips—hopefully this helps if you’re planning your own Miyazaki adventure!
Day 1 — History and Food in Miyakonojo
Marushin Ramen — A Local Favorite
From Miyazaki City, I drove toward Miyakonojo and stopped by Marushin Ramen with an empty stomach. It wasn’t a touristy place at all—just a restaurant packed with locals.
I ordered the ramen with a soft-boiled egg. The cloudy tonkotsu broth and thin noodles looked simple but comforting. The flavor was rich yet surprisingly light, almost gentle. No heavy feeling afterward—just the kind of ramen that perfectly fits into everyday life.
Breaking open the egg, the creamy yolk blended with the broth and added a mellow depth. Meanwhile, I noticed a family at the next table, with kids casually ordering extra noodles. That scene told me this place isn’t just a shop—it’s part of daily life here. Discovering a spot like this on a trip feels like hitting a little jackpot.
▶︎ Perfect for travelers who want to taste “everyday Miyazaki” rather than tourist fare!
Shimazu Residence — Samurai Culture and the Emperor’s Footsteps
Next stop: the historic Shimazu Residence in Miyakonojo, once home to a branch of the powerful Shimazu clan. Inside the grounds, I found a stately garden and a beautifully preserved wooden house.
What surprised me most was learning that Emperor Showa once stayed here during his postwar tours across Japan. Sitting on the tatami, with sunlight streaming softly through the window, I couldn’t help but think: “The Emperor himself once sat in this very place.” Suddenly, history felt very close.
The exhibits also included recreated meals and furniture from that era. It struck me that while those settings represented the very best at the time, today most of us live with conveniences far beyond what even the elite had back then. A simple realization—but one that reminded me how fortunate our everyday lives are.
▶︎ A wonderful stop for history lovers seeking a quiet and reflective moment.
Night in Miyazaki City — Drinks in Nishitachi
Takamine — Shochu and Local Specialties
Back in Miyazaki City, I checked into my hotel and headed straight to Nishitachi, the city’s main nightlife district.
At Takamine, I was greeted with an aperitif of Honkaku Kirishima, a local sweet potato shochu. Its gentle aroma rose from the glass, and the taste slipped smoothly down my throat—this is Kyushu in a sip.
For food, I had chicken nanban and fresh chicken sashimi. The nanban was crispy outside, soft inside, with a balance of sweet vinegar and creamy tartar sauce that made me think, “Yes, this is Miyazaki.” The sashimi was tender, bursting with umami, and practically demanded another glass of shochu.
Kochiya — The Original Spicy Kara-men
For a second stop, I went to Kochiya, famous for its spicy kara-men noodles. At first the shop was empty, but within minutes it filled up—proof of its popularity.
The noodles come in spice levels from 1 to 25. I timidly chose level 1, yet the broth still carried a warming chili aroma that spread through my body. The staff told me that spice lovers usually go for level 8. Watching a group of young locals sweat it out at that level, I thought: “Maybe next time, I’ll try it too.”
Snack Bars — The Heart of Nishitachi
Did you know? Miyazaki has the most snack bars per capita in Japan. With farming and livestock at the center of local life, these bars became places where people gathered after work to talk, drink, and relax.
I wandered into one at random and was warmly welcomed. A local couple at the counter struck up a conversation with me, and soon we were sharing drinks like old friends. The charm of Nishitachi is that even first-time visitors feel instantly at home.
▶︎Highly recommended for solo travelers who want to connect with locals.
Day 2 — Tropical Vibes in Aoshima
Toyokichi Udon — A Gentle Breakfast
Miyazaki also has its own udon culture, with some shops opening early in the morning. Toyokichi Udon is a classic stop, especially for those recovering from a night of drinking.
I ordered tanuki udon. The soft noodles and light, clear broth were exactly what my body needed. It was a soothing start to the second day.
Aoshima Botanical Garden and Shrine — A Tropical Escape
A 45-minute bus ride took me to Aoshima, Miyazaki’s tropical island and spiritual hotspot.
The botanical garden welcomed me with tall palm trees and bursts of bougainvillea blossoms. Fun fact: Miyazaki Airport is nicknamed Bougainvillea Airport in honor of this flower.
From there, I strolled along the beach to Aoshima Shrine, famous for blessings in love and marriage. Surrounded by the ocean, the bright red shrine had a mystical atmosphere. With the sea breeze flowing through, it truly felt sacred.
Just beyond stretched the natural wonder Oni no Sentakuita, a dramatic pattern of wave-like rock formations carved by the sea. It was nature’s artwork at its finest.
Hiyajiru Lunch and Tropical Sweets
For lunch, I tried hiyajiru, a local summer dish of chilled miso broth poured over rice. With sesame, miso, and fresh herbs, it was refreshing and light—exactly what you want in the southern heat.
As a souvenir, I picked up Nan-o-zaru Boro, a local biscuit with a playful package and airy crunch. Perfect as a lighthearted gift. And of course, I couldn’t resist a mango soft serve—the rich sweetness and aroma of Miyazaki mango was pure happiness in a cone.
Souvenir Picks from Miyazaki
- Nan-otoko-zaru Boro (Aoshima limited) — A fun name and light texture, great as a conversation starter.
- Cheese Manju — A Miyazaki classic. Sweet buns filled with cream cheese, great with coffee.
- Hyuganatsu Jelly — Refreshingly sweet and sour, perfect chilled in summer.
- Shochu (Kirishima, Kuro Kirishima, etc.) — Miyazaki’s signature spirit, a way to relive your nights in Nishitachi at home.
Conclusion — A City with Two Faces
This trip showed me that Miyazaki is a place of contrasts.
By day, Aoshima’s tropical sunshine and ocean views. By night, Nishitachi’s warm hospitality and flowing shochu. Add in the history of the Shimazu Residence, the flavors of chicken nanban, hiyajiru, mango, and local shochu, and you have a journey far richer than its short duration suggests.
See you on the next trip!
