March. A time when spring seems just around the corner, yet winter still lingers in the air. Feeling the need for a change of pace, I planned a short trip to Fukushima. The goal was to enjoy local sake, traditional cuisine, and a touch of snow-covered scenery.
Taking the bullet train from Tokyo to Koriyama, then traveling onward to Aizu-Wakamatsu, this was a 2-day, 1-night trip that felt easygoing yet slightly indulgent—a grown-up reward to myself.
Day 1: Tokyo → Koriyama / An Evening of Sake
I left Tokyo on a Saturday around midday, catching a late-morning bullet train. Since I had plans for a night of sake hopping, I kept lunch light with a small ekiben.
As the train left the city, the scenery shifted to fields and mountains, with hints of spring peeking through the withered winter landscape. Under a clear sky, the crisp air felt refreshing. I arrived at Koriyama Station after about an hour and a half. The urban atmosphere of the station area was more modern than I had expected.
My hotel was a five-minute walk from the station, chosen mainly for its public bath. After settling in, I took a short walk through the chilly air before setting out for the main event—an evening of local sake.
Travel Tip: March in Koriyama can still bring snow. Check the weather forecast and dress warmly.
First stop: Harumachido Koriyama
This cozy, hidden izakaya had a warm wooden interior and a relaxing atmosphere. I sampled local sake such as Yauemon, Aizu Chujo, and Eikawa. The spicy bamboo shoot appetizer was surprisingly addictive.
I ordered “ika ninjin” (shredded squid and carrot), a local specialty, and grilled skewers of Kawamata Shamo and Date chicken. The combination of flavors and textures paired perfectly with the sake, capturing the spirit of Tohoku’s food culture.
Second stop: Kushizen
This restaurant is known for its extensive sake selection. Bottles lined the walls, featuring names like Izumikawa, Ippongi, Hiroki, and Sharaku.
I was lucky to be served by a staff member passionate about sake, who offered thoughtful recommendations based on my preferences. He even shared his dream of one day opening his own sake bar, which made the experience more personal and memorable.
I also ordered Namie yakisoba, a Fukushima comfort food with thick noodles and rich sauce—great with sake. The food, drink, and friendly encounters left me feeling deeply satisfied.
Travel Tip: Research local food and sake in advance to fully enjoy the culinary experience.
Back at the hotel, I relaxed in the public bath before enjoying a quiet beer in my room. My body felt relaxed, and I fell asleep with a sense of contentment.
Day 2: Koriyama → Aizu-Wakamatsu / Snowy Landscapes and Local Flavor
The next morning, I stepped outside into a snowstorm. Surprised by the sudden change, I made my way to the station to catch the bus to Aizu-Wakamatsu. Since buses are infrequent, checking the schedule ahead of time is helpful.
From the bus window, snow-covered fields and mountains passed by. This was exactly the peaceful scene I had come for.
Arriving just before noon, I headed to Restaurant Ninomaru near Tsuruga Castle. I ordered both the Aizu-style sauce katsudon and a bowl of Kitakata ramen.
The katsudon featured juicy pork cutlet in a sweet, thick sauce over rice—comforting and flavorful. The ramen had a light soy-based broth with curly noodles, soothing after the previous night’s drinks.
Tsuruga Castle in the Snow
In the afternoon, I visited Tsuruga Castle. The red-roofed keep contrasted beautifully with the snow, like a scene from a painting.
This castle played a key role in the Boshin War and endured a month-long siege during the Aizu War. As I walked through its quiet halls, I could almost feel the resolve of those who once defended it.
Among the exhibits, the photos of Byakkotai—young warriors aged 16 to 17—were especially moving. Their solemn expressions conveyed deep determination.
From the top of the keep, I looked out over the snowy town, imagining what those warriors once saw.
Travel Tip: A quick review of Japanese history, especially the Boshin War, adds depth to the castle visit.
Last stop: Suehiro Sake Brewery
I joined a walk-in tour of this historic sake brewery. Surrounded by old tools and traditions, I listened to the guide explain how sake is made. Gradually, I was drawn into the depth and artistry of the craft.
At the tasting corner, I found a bottle I really liked and bought it as a souvenir. A perfect way to end the trip.
Travel Tip: Knowing the basic sake-making process can enhance the experience of a brewery tour.
Return to Tokyo
On the bus back to Koriyama, I reflected on the snow, the flavors, and the people I had met. I stopped by the souvenir shop at the station before boarding the early evening train back to Tokyo.
I felt a little sad for the trip to end, but I also felt sure I would return—perhaps during cherry blossom season or the fresh green of early summer. Fukushima has that kind of quiet charm.
Closing Thoughts
This trip reminded me that Fukushima is best enjoyed slowly and intentionally. Without rushing, without pressure, but with a touch of indulgence.
The sake, the food, the scenery, the history, and the warmth of the people—all of it made for a journey that deeply satisfied both heart and palate.
Until next time.
Note: Weather and business hours may vary. Please check the latest information before your visit.
