Hello! It’s Tom here.
Following my Akita journey, I’m excited to share the second part of my weekend Tohoku trip—this time in Morioka.
Unlike Akita’s gentle, tranquil atmosphere, Morioka feels crisp and poised—but intimately walkable, where history and culture come alive around every corner.
Here is the tale of two peaceful and fulfilling days in Morioka.
- A Weekend Escape by Shinkansen: Arrival at Morioka Station
- Revisiting Time at Morioka Castle Ruins with Takuboku
- Afternoon Toast with Craft Beer and Sausages
- Local Speciality: Fukuda Pan at Nakanohashi
- At Morioka Hachimangu Shrine, a Prayer for Safe Travels
- Exploring Literary Roots at Takuboku & Kenji Youth Museum
- Sumptuous Dinner at Seirokaku: Yakiniku & Reimen
- Second Stop: Gin-kura and an Evening of Tohoku Sake
- A Seafood Jar Breakfast & Souvenir Finale
- Final Thoughts: Light Steps, Deep Impressions
A Weekend Escape by Shinkansen: Arrival at Morioka Station
On a weekend evening, I hopped on the Shinkansen and arrived at Morioka Station after dark.
The station’s spacious interior and soft lighting set just the right tone for the start of the journey.
Early May’s temperature near the station was slightly chilly. A gentle night breeze brushed my cheeks as I watched the city lights twinkle—instantly relaxing.
After dropping my bags at the hotel, I headed to Menya Iori, a popular local ramen shop within walking distance.
Though modest from the outside, the interior welcomed me with rising steam and the delicate aroma of dried sardines.
That evening, I savored their curly wheat noodles in dried sardine soy broth.
Visually simple, but the soup was deep and satisfying—rich in sardine flavor yet refreshingly clean.
The noodles were perfectly springy, absorbing the broth in each bite. It was obvious why locals love this bowl so much.
Bathed in the calm of the night, this bowl gently untangled my mind and body.
Revisiting Time at Morioka Castle Ruins with Takuboku
The next morning, I woke up early and headed to Morioka Castle Ruins Park.
Legend says this was the spot where Ishikawa Takuboku, then a student, escaped school to get lost in books.
Today, only the stone walls remain in the peaceful park, but the open space sparks the imagination.
From the hill, I could see Mount Iwate’s majestic silhouette in the distance—the crisp air filling my lungs and giving me that bracing freshness of early morning.
By the way, Ishikawa Takuboku was a Meiji-era poet and tanka lyricist celebrated for his sensitive nature and sharp social insight. Though his life was short, his poems about family affection, homesickness, and poverty endure today.
A plaque bearing one of his famous tanka stands quietly in the park:
“Lying on the grass of Koromo Castle,
Fifteen-year-old heart drawn into the sky above”
Imagining him gazing upward there as a teenager fills one with a sense of time’s passage. I found myself silently joining that “fifteen-year-old heart” in reflection.
Afternoon Toast with Craft Beer and Sausages
Nearby, in front of the MOSS building, a craft beer event was underway.
Local breweries had gathered, offering beer to enjoy standing outdoors under a clear sky—a perfect spontaneous treat.
I chose a pale ale named MEBUKI, bursting with citrus aroma and crisp bitterness.
Paired with a coarse-grain sausage, its juicy interior and crisp casing complemented the beer perfectly, drawing a satisfied smile.
Locals and travelers mingled, beers in hand, chatting freely.
Discovering such an event on the road created a sense of “I’m really glad I came here.”
Local Speciality: Fukuda Pan at Nakanohashi
In the afternoon, I headed to Fukuda Pan’s Nakanohashi location, famous since 1948 for its soft, chewy coppe bread filled to order.
A 10-minute walk from the castle ruins takes you across Kaiun Bridge and straight down Nakanohashi Street to the shop, which is nestled beside the Morioka Bus Center—but part of it is a separate building, so I nearly missed it.
I chose the Chicken Meat filling: slightly spicy minced chicken that harmonized beautifully with the fluffy bread.
Savory options are just as delightful as sweet ones here.
Lines of locals awaited their turn, testament to its popularity.
Perfect for a walking snack or a late-night treat back at the hotel.
At Morioka Hachimangu Shrine, a Prayer for Safe Travels
Next, I visited the venerable Morioka Hachimangu Shrine, founded in 1680 by Lord Nanbu Shigenobu. It has served as the spiritual heart of the city for centuries.
Walking through the red torii gate brought a solemn calm over me, and the ornate carvings of dragons and lions on the main hall were captivating.
At the shrine, I spotted students praying for club safety—serious and respectful. It struck me how deeply the shrine is woven into local life.
I joined them quietly, praying for the rest of my journey and for the natural beauty I’d discovered.
Exploring Literary Roots at Takuboku & Kenji Youth Museum
That afternoon, I visited the Takuboku & Kenji Youth Museum in a repurposed Meiji-era bank. The preserved interior felt timeless.
Inside, the young lives of Ishikawa Takuboku and Kenji Miyazawa—both from Morioka—are artfully showcased:
- They were classmates at Morioka Middle School (now First High School); Takuboku was eleven years senior to Kenji.
- Takuboku dropped out, became a poet and reporter, and tragically died in Tokyo at 27 in 1912.
- Kenji graduated, studied agriculture locally, then returned to Hanamaki to dedicate himself to literature, farming, and education.
- Kenji deeply admired Takuboku and drew inspiration from his work and life.
The museum displays their manuscripts, personal items, and newspaper clippings chronologically, bringing their era to life.
An exhibit on their school trips revealed that what now takes a day through Iwate once took nearly a week by train and foot. Their diaries showcased the rigors of travel, friendship, and aspiration—very moving.
Takuboku’s poems reflect tender love for his home, societal reflection, and familial affection, while Kenji’s writings resonate with nature’s beauty, hope for peace, and human connection.
It felt like a deeper journey through literature and history.
Sumptuous Dinner at Seirokaku: Yakiniku & Reimen
As evening came, I headed to Seirokaku, a top yakiniku spot near Morioka Station. Arriving early paid off—by the time I left, a line had formed.
I grilled thick karubi slices over charcoal, paired with chilled beer—pure indulgence. For dessert, I enjoyed Morioka reimen.
The firm, chewy noodles and beef-bone broth, subtly sweetened with fruit essence, felt perfectly harmonious. The iconic watermelon slice added refreshingly sweet contrast, transforming the bowl into an unexpected delight.
It looked beautiful and tasted even better—an elegant finale to dinner.
Second Stop: Gin-kura and an Evening of Tohoku Sake
Still in the mood for a nightcap, I visited Gin-kura, a snug local sake bar near the station. They offer a tasting experience featuring regional selections—ideal for a relaxed evening.
That night, I savored three varieties:
- Asabiraki Suijin (Morioka)
- Ryusen Yaezakura (Iwate)
- Hamachidori (Kamaishi)
Each showed distinct aromas, acidity, and textures—like tasting the essence of each locale.
I paired them with Oshu Iwaidori yakitori, its crisp skin and juicy texture balanced perfectly with the sake’s flavor.
Chatting quietly with the owner over the counter, glass in hand—this kind of night fades into memory.
A Seafood Jar Breakfast & Souvenir Finale
On the final morning, I enjoyed a seafood jar rice bowl I’d bought the previous day. Packed with scallops and salmon roe, it looked and tasted like a feast.
Just as the vendor advised, I thawed it in the hotel fridge overnight.
That morning, I ladled it onto instant rice and dug in.
The aroma of the sea and sweet taste of the seafood made it feel like a real treat, even for an early breakfast.
Before returning, I grabbed souvenirs at Morioka Station—Koiwai Farm drinking yogurt and Iwaizumi milk pudding, both simple but delicious—you can’t go wrong. Glad I brought a cooler.
Final Thoughts: Light Steps, Deep Impressions
Morioka offered a weekend that spoke softly yet left lasting warmth.
A journey woven with history, literature, local flavor, and cultural depth—a true exploration beyond typical sightseeing.
Every moment was gentle yet unforgettable, leaving me eager to return.
Next time? I’ll chase the snow in Morioka.
Until then—see you on the next adventure!
